Hey, Teach!

victoria —  March 21, 2006 — Leave a comment

I am still teaching classes at Ye Olde Pot and Pannery and loving it. I have some students who have signed up for four and five classes. Looking out into a small puddle, 11 people hardly qualify as a sea, of faces and seeing people who have been in the class before is tremendously rewarding. it feels really good to know I am on the right track and that people are responding to my menus and my instructional style.

My manager has really been good about giving me an idea of what she would like to see, then letting me do my own thing. I feel really lucky to have had the opportunity to do this. I am thinking I should thank her again…

Just to give you a taste of what we did last week, here are a couple recipes from our Spice Route Cuisine class. I adapted some recipes from Paula Wolfert who is the Mediterranean Cuisine Goddess of Goddesses. Her recipes make my house smell like the Near East of my imagination as everything is very authentic. It does require a trip or two out of your usual grocery run pattern for things like pomegranate molasses and sumac, but it is so worth it when you bite into those luscious mixes of the familiar and the exotic. The woman knows her eggplant and any woman who knows 473 things to do with an eggplant is a friend of mine. I also adapted a Nigella Lawson recipe (mostly by cutting down on the booze as we are not allowed to liquor up patrons at the Pannery).

Stuffed Eggplants with Tomato-Pomegranate Sauce
Makes 4 to 5 servings as a side

8 to 10 small Japanese, Italian, or Indian eggplants
Coarse sea salt
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
¾ pounds dark turkey meat, coarsely ground (you can also use ground lamb shoulder)
½ Tablespoon Tagine Spices (a Pannery product…can sub cumin, sumac and ground coriander)
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup pine nuts, toasted
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 green bell pepper, thinly sliced
1 ½ Tablespoons tomato paste
1 ½ teaspoons pomegranate molasses
1 12” x 12” sheet of parchment
½ teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Sugar
4 to 5 flat-leaf parsley sprigs for garnish

1. Gently roll each eggplant back and forth 4 or 5 times on a work surface to soften it and facilitate the removal of the insides. Remove the stems and discard. Use a vegetable reamer or an apple corer and a small measuring spoon to tunnel through the eggplant to within a ¼ inch of the end. Rotate the reamer or corer to scoop out the pulp, leaving a 1/8″ shell and taking care not to break the skin; discard the pulp. Fill a large bowl with water, stir in 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt until dissolved, add the eggplants, and set aside to soak.

2. In a heavy medium skillet, melt I tablespoon of the butter over moderately low heat. Add the onion, cover, stirring occasionally, until soft but not brown, about 10 mins. Increase the heat to moderate and add the turkey or lamb, breaking up the meat with a fork. Cook until no longer pink, about 3 minutes. Stir in ½ teaspoon coarse sea salt, the Tagine Spices, black pepper, and 3 Tablespoons water. Cook until all the water has evaporated, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and fold in the pine nuts. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside to cool and wash out the skillet.

3. Drain the eggplants and pat dry with paper towels. Using a small spoon or melon baller, pack each eggplant with the meat stuffing. Reserve any extra stuffing.

4. In the same skillet, heat the oil and the remaining butter, add the stuffed eggplants, and fry in batches, turning, until lightly browned on all sides. In a 5-quart casserole, arrange the eggplants in one layer. Add any leftover filling, then tuck the pepper slices between the eggplants.

5. Drain any excess fat from the skillet and add ½ cup water, the tomato paste, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, and pinches of salt and black pepper to taste; bring to a boil over high heat. Pour the sauce over the eggplants, top with a round of wet, crumbled parchment, then a lid; cook, covered, over low heat until very tender, about 30 minutes. Allow the eggplants to rest 10 minutes in the casserole.

6. Carefully transfer the eggplants to a serving dish. If the sauce is too thin, rapidly reduce it to a creamy consistency. Adjust the seasoning with salt, black pepper, and sugar to taste. Spoon over the eggplants, scatter the parsley on top, and serve warm.

Note: You can substitute small zucchini for the eggplant, but reduce cooking time by 15 minutes. I also did one large eggplant, it has to cook a little longer but it isn’t as fiddly as the small ones and is pretty dramatic when you go to cut it up at the table.

Turkish Delight Syllabub
8 five-ounce servings

1/4 cup Cointreau or Grand Marnier*
Juice of 2 lemons
8 Tablespoon sugar
Just under 2 ½ cups heavy cream
2 Tablespoons rosewater
2 Tablespoons orange flower water
2 Tablespoons shelled pistachios, finely chopped

1. Combine the Cointreau, lemon juice and sugar in a large bowl and stir to dissolve the sugar. Slowly stir in the cream and begin whisking. This can all be done in a Kitchen Aid mixer or with a hand mixer.

2. When the cream is fairly thick, but still not thick enough to hold its shape, dribble in the flower waters and keep whisking until you have a creamy texture that’s light and airy but able to form soft peaks. Better to be slightly too runny then too thick so watch the mixture closely, especially if using an electric mixer.

3. Spoon the syllabub into small glasses, letting the mixture billow up over the top of the glass a little and scatter the chopped pistachios over the tops.

* You can use up to ¾ of a cup of liqueur to make this more like a cocktail. With the extra liquid it will separate more and be more like a drink.

In the interest of blatant self promotion, I had the idea to have an Oscar party. J., my partner in this crime called Joie de Vivre had the idea to invite a bunch of people who might know people who might want to use our services. We invited some of those folks, plus all the folks in Nashville that we love and had ourselves a grand ol’ time.

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When I feel the need for Irish beer and a some fish and chips we make the trek to Franklin to McCreary’s. They have the best pub grub I have had the pleasure of consuming in the Nashville environs. It is definitely worth fighting traffic on I-65 to partake.

I have never strayed off the fish & chips menu except for the “pretending to be virtuous” house salad before the deep fried feast. Keifel ordered the cheese and bacon slathered chips last time we were there and despite any pretending to be virtuous thoughts I may have been harboring, I dug in with relish (and skipped the chips that came with my fish basket).

The fish is cod filet with a shatteringly crisp batter about its being. It is better than the one run in I had with fish and chips in London. The chips, or fries for us Yanks, are thick cut and creamy on the inside crunchy on the outside. All the tables are set with ketchup and malt vinegar so you can be as gauchely American or as authentically British Isles as you prefer. However, aside from the decor and the beers, that’s as authentic as McCreary’s gets. There are wings and chicken pot pie to be had that I hear are tasty but haven’t been the purpose of my missions.

One of the very best things about McCreary’s is that we can make it a family affair when we go and it is smoke free, to boot. There are communal style tables lining each side of the very narrow shotgun space and a few seats at the bar in the back. Friday nights are music nights; I still haven’t figured out how they cram a band in there but they do it with regularity. Warm weather offers outdoor cafe tables looking out onto Franklin’s charming main shopping district.

All in all, for those of us who require our fried fixin’s to be more Continental than catfish, McCreary’s is definitely the place. Oh, and if you feel the need to top off your naughty night with some ice cream or caffeine, there is both a Starbucks and a Ben & Jerry’s within a block… not that I would do that or anything.

McCreary’s Irish Pub and Eatery
414 Main St
Franklin, TN 37064-2761
(615) 591-3197
Across the street from Franklin’s tiny cinema usually screening family fare

Part of the work I’ve been doing to make the blog more search engine friendly seems to have attracted comment spammers so until that problem is solved, all comments are going to have to be moderated.

edit: moderation is frustrating me, it seems as fast as i moderate is as fast the spam comes back, so until i can decide which comment spam tool i’m going to use, you’re going to have to register to leave a comment. sorry about the inconvenience.

Pressing Onward

victoria —  January 27, 2006 — 1 Comment

Today, I picked up my Intent to Graduate form. It seems on odd thing, in that I imagine that any degree-seeking student is intent on graduating. Nonetheless, it is in my possession and needs to be completed and signed by 237 people, or so it seems, by next Monday. After this semester, I will have an internship, and two computer courses left if my petition to waive the Speech 101 requirement is successful.

This semester my coursework is mostly culinary. I have International Cuisine, Garde Manger, Table Service and Beverage Management and, the exception to the culinary classes, Principles of Accounting I. Admittedly, I did not head into the semester overjoyed about the prospect of accounting in any shape or form, but I do see its use, especially in relating to running my own business.

We have two fairly extensive projects this semester, a buffet for garde manger that centers on a theme and a menu and small seminar on a country for International. My group for garde manger decided on Denmark as our country. I think it will be a challenge, which is good. Thankfully we are looking at a great deal of potatoes and fish, not so difficult to track down in Nashville. For garde manger, my group isn’t firm on a theme but seems to be leaning toward a 1970s cocktail party. I wanted to do an English afternoon tea sort of thing and got turned down. The downside to being the only girl and the whole English tea thing smacking of doilies. Oh, well. The 1970s will be fun to revisit and relatively easy to decorate for, I just don’t want it to be too velveeta laden. No chefs in bell-bottoms kind of thing.

Despite my fears last semester that I had fallen into a culinary Grease Pit of Despair and was singularly screwing up, I managed to pull it out and kept my 4.0. I was completely floored by that and hopeful that another successful semester, a bang up internship and August graduation will make me employable. The day job will be pretty important if J. and I are going to get this business running toward what we really want to be doing–cookbooks and travel. This is where I could go off on a complete tangent about culinary tours of Slovenia and places off the foodies’ beaten track. I’ll save that for another day.

On another note, we here at Ars Culinaria, we being me, are still interested in doing the Ask Foodieporn segments so please send your inquiries regarding all things culinary, tangental is okay too, to Victoria at foodieporn with the .com thingy at the end, all lowercase, no spaces (must. keep. the. bots. at. bay.).

Sawaddii, Memphis, Tennessee

victoria —  January 23, 2006 — 7 Comments

Keifel and I recently had the pleasure of an overnight in Memphis for his green card interview. Keifel is now an official permanent resident (Huzzah!) and we got to spend some time together without the interference of work and school for a brief 24 hour span. As our presence was requested at the immigration office at 7:30 AM and we arrived in Memphis around 4:30PM the previous day we had some time to kill, which we spent at the Ye Olde Pot and Pannery outlet, the Davis-Kidd Booksellers Memphis store and finding some sustenance. SC recommended a Thai place downtown by the Peabody, so after some debate about driving versus staying close to the hotel, we headed further west.

The front door to Sawaddii opens onto a very small reception area and bar. The restaurant was practically deserted on a Wednesday night and we were seated immediately. Brightly painted portraits of musicians of every genre line the muted walls and contrast nicely with the dark wood tones of the bar and screen separating the bar back from the restaurant. The tables are comfortable if utilitarian and everything else has the clean lines that one has come to expect of Asian restaurants. The lighting was a little bright for dinner after dark and the music was mostly okay except for a travesty that might only offend me: a bad cover of Van Morrison.

Our overly chatty waiter took our drinks order and disappeared briefly. Keifel and I both zeroed in on the duck dishes of which there were two. We decided to each get one and start with tom ka soup. The soup arrived very quickly steaming with the scent of lemongrass, one of the main reasons that I adore it. It was a bit thinner than I had had before but still with a good body. Overall the flavor was balanced between the citrus notes of the lemongrass and lime leaves and the earthiness of the mushrooms in their coconut milk bath. There is one caveat. The chicken was cooked to death and cut into sizes three times what would be politely manageable on a spoon.

Our duck dishes arrived as quickly as the soup had, in fact, we had not had time to finish the soup. Yes, rushing me through the courses is one of my very biggest pet peeves. Keifel had ordered the roasted duck with curry, pineapple and spinach. It smelled divine. I ordered the Sam Rod duck. Mine smelled pretty good, too. Keifel’s duck had marvelously crispy skin, was cooked perfectly with pink still at the center of the breast, and the curry pulled it all together. I could have eaten a bowl of the pineapple and curry over rice and been utterly content. In fact I should have. The skin on my duck was crispy, but the flesh was overcooked and liver-y tasting. The overly salted sauce didn’t help matters along and the sweet and sour sauce clashed and fought rather than counterpointed. I ate more of Keifel’s than I did of my own.

The server did not comment on my quarter eaten entree. He also took Keifel’s plate before I had finished pushing mine around instead of taking both plates at the same time. Another pet peeve.

Once we had decided that I should write a review, I decided I had to give the dessert menu a go. My choices came down to key lime pie and creme brulee, two of my personal favorites. The key lime pie was not made in house so I decided to attempt the creme brulee. Keifel looked at me with a great deal of scepticism and pointed out that this could only end in tears. I should have listened.

Our waiter disappeared, for a good while. It was the longest span he had spent away from our table and I began to worry that the stress of dealing with us and two other tables may have overwhelmed him, or more likely that he had gone for a smoke. He did finally advent with my dessert and cautioned me the dish was hot because he had just taken the torch to it himself. Really, it should sit for a few minutes after the flaming, to harden, and it shouldn’t get hot as the custard… well, you’ll see.

It was really far too large a portion for one person, which he had not mentioned, and there was a liquid film over the carmelized and burnt sugar topping. The custard was close to room temperature and badly curdled. I was crestfallen. Generally when Keifel and I go out, he always gets the better entree and I try to save the meal with a nice dessert. Not to be.

I tried one more route to dining happiness and ordered coffee. This was their last chance to save the evening as I firmly believe a crappy cup of coffee can ruin a perfectly good meal while a good after dinner cuppa can cover, if not a multitude, at least a few sins.

Sawaddii has great coffee.

Sawaddii Thai Cuisine
121 Union Avenue
Memphis, Tennessee 38103
901-529-1818

Please stand by

admin —  January 7, 2006 — 1 Comment

We’ve just upgraded to WP 2 and are currently encountering some issues with our theme, so we’ve switched to the default theme momentarily.

Projects, etc.

victoria —  November 28, 2005 — Leave a comment

Despite rumors to the contrary I have not fallen off the face of the earth. I’ve just been terribly, stupidly busy. And for those who wonder why I continually do this to myself you will be relieved to know that my sole New Year’s Resolution is to learn to say “no.” (I can hear Keifel chuckling now).

Our first catering gig went remarkably well, despite the fact that nearly twice as many people showed as we had guaranteed for. Again, not my mistake but I think it may have colored the overall impressions. JC, my partner, said there were raves on the food, which we of course love to hear. We did go all out quality wise and now we know what we need to be charging.

My buffet production has come and gone, as well. There were some glitches and my packet didn’t dazzle as much as I had hoped. I made an A but a low one that won’t have much impact on my lower than I’d like midterm grade. I think I might be looking at a B for Culinary III, which I have to admit has me in shudders. I’ve had a 4.0 to this point and I would like to keep it. I can’t seem to do anything exactly right this semester in the class. It is frustrating and has shaken my confidence, probably more than I am comfortable admitting. Keifel says that’s my problem, that cooking is like graphic design and that I need more attitude and ego. Maybe. But those with attitude and ego don’t seem to be faring any better than me in class. I know that I don’t have an “arrogant chef” within just waiting to blossom. And if I did I would beat her down with a whisk anyway. I don’t want to be that person. I also don’t think I would be a very good teacher if I became that person. I do realize that I am my own harshest critic and that I am not satisfied unless it’s an A that’s a perfect 100. I was terribly nervous the night that I cooked, to the point that it was mentioned on my grading sheet. I also know that I need to relax, again, this isn’t brain surgery. No one is going to die if my soup doesn’t have enough body or I didn’t put herbs in my crackers. I’m not going to die if I don’t make a 100 on every assignment. I think I am frustrated because I can’t seem to hit that sweet spot this semester with this instructor and it gets under my skin.

I know I promised to post recipes but as I mentioned they are in excel which doesn’t seem to play nice with the format here. For now, I have one recipe I have been tweaking that began as an item for the project.

Victoria’s Ruby Fruit Sauce

1 bag cranberries
zest and juice from one largish orange
3/4 cup evaporated cane juice or granulated sugar
1/2 cup pomegranate juice
1/2 cup black currant preserves
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
pinch of salt
juice of half a lemon or to taste

Combine first 4 ingredients in a large saucepan and heat over medium high heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar has dissolved. Lower the heat to medium low and cook until the majority of the cranberries have burst and begun to break down. The sauce will have begun to thicken. Reduce the heat again to low and stir in the remaining ingredients, tasting and adjusting the seasoning. Allow to cool to room temperature and refrigerate up to two weeks.

Well, at least we are having a few dry runs. J., my new partner, her hubby. Keifel and I are doing all the busy work to get us all legal so we can be official without spending what little savings we have. We do have a housewarming this month and the business meetings and maybe some cooking classes as well. It’s kind of taken me by surprise but I do like the idea that I will be doing what I set out to do and taking a stab at it before there is even ink on the diploma.

The 33rd birthday was lovely. Julian, the boychick, made me pancakes and syrup from scratch for my birthday dinner all by himself. He had some frustration but he can already flip pancakes like a pro. They were tasty, tender and blonde which is how I like mine much to my mother and father’s chagrin when I was a girlchick because you have to stand right over them or they get dark. They do tend to taste a little more raw than pancakes cooked to a toasty brown, but we all have our quirks. Over the birthday weekend I did get a little bit of a surprise, that has nothing to do with cooking, in that I found my first gray hair glinting back at me in the mirror. The initial shock has passed but it made me feel the whole birthday thing a little more acutely.

Back to things culinary, despite the fact that the temps are still in the 70s and even 80s this week, I made the first pot of chili for the fall. I find I deviate more from the sacrosanct recipe every time. This time I used a whole can of Murphy’s Stout for the beer portion and it made the chili have this deep note that it was lacking with the switch from beef to ground turkey (dark meat, please). I also added a late season pepper that was green but turning red. To my knowledge Dad never added bell pepper but it was a welcome addition as well. My supply of contraband Mexican powdered chiles is dwindling so I am either going to have to bribe my aunt to ship more or just head to the mercado and blend up some mix of my own. That sounds more appealing in that I will know exactly what’s ground up in there and I can play with the fruitiness v. heat ratio.

This is also the week when we will get fruits soaking for black cake (much later than we had planned, c’est la vie). I will also start laying in butter for the outrageous brownies and other holiday treats. We are planning on having the Boxing Day open house again this year, despite the fact that it’s on a Monday which is generally not a holiday here in the States. I’ll post the menu when it’s firmed up. We decided to make it an afternoon into evening thing for those poor souls who have to go back to work the day after Christmas. At least they can stop by on the way home for black cake and punch.

It’s so nice to be busy but not buried like last year.

Aaaaah, Fall

victoria —  November 2, 2005 — 1 Comment

I know I have mentioned before how much I love fall. The leaves here are kind of eh. It was still 85 degrees last week so the leaves are mostly just turning brown and dropping. Thankfully, the maples are doing their thing and there are bursts of brilliant reds and oranges along my daily routes. It makes a November baby all warm and fuzzy inside.

Speaking of November babies… The big 33 is this week. I’ve been too busy to really ponder the birthday thing too much, but on a culinary note, Keifel, the amazing man that he is, gave me two wonderful gifts: a weekend of touristy loveliness and Sheraton sweet sleeper deep, deep sleep in Chattanooga and a beautiful (long coveted) Shun santoku knife. I’ve been staring at the box all afternoon while I finish my Culinary III project packet. (When I figure out how to post recipes from Excel I’ll add those to the Foodieporn Library o’ Goodness.) I can’t wait to chop things with this knife. I’ve been using one at Ye Olde Pot & Pannery in the cooking classes for sometime, hence the coveting. It takes all kinds of abuse there and stays razor sharp. And, O how happy sharp, sharp knives make me. My, that sounds disturbing.

The semester is rocking along. Aforementioned project package is due tomorrow night and I have rotated into the garde manger kitchen at Hotel Chi Chi. I love it. Lots of fruit chopping and bleeding knuckles from my hands being wet all the time, but I have taken to wearing cloves almost constantly to avoid that problem. C. has shared many secrets of the kitchen, mostly ones that my life would be worthless were I to share, so I shall remain silent on those points.

In the getting my business off the ground ring of my personal circus, I may have a new business partner. And it looks like we may have a catering job already. An open house for 50. Bigger than I generally wanted to do as my equipment list is still nearly zero. We shall see how it all comes together. CSG has also asked me to possibly cater some breakfast meetings at her place of employ. It looks like I might actually have some revenue to offset my business expenses for the year.