I was reading this thread on eGullet and started pondering the concept of ironic or postmodern food. There was all this talk after September 11th that we were entering the post-ironic age and that it was suddenly okay to be sincere again. I really don’t think that has been the case. As with anything else Americans have gone on with their lives, and ways. And, I think irony is alive and well. I’m just not so sure it should apply to food.
This is really about fondue and other semi-trendy, so-called-retro, vaguely hipsterish foods. The above thread was about whether serving fondue to guests would be cool or not. Lines were drawn. The schools of thought broke down like this: Fondue is a traditional food that when done well is fun and tasty v. Fondue is tacky and passe. It was said that you could only serve fondue to serious foodies if you were being ironic or postmodern about it.
That, to me, is absurd. Food is food. If you want to serve lovingly prepared pigs-in-a-blanket to your guests, have at it. I will not deny that there have been some egregiously nasty things passed off as food in the not so distant past. There were also certain party foods that were done to death.
But, if you wanted to serve one of these dishes, could you only serve it in the context of a Swinging Seventies key party? Or if you wanted to load up on Manhattans and old fashioneds do you have to listen to Frank Sinatra and have the entire line of Swell merchandise from Target littering your home?
I am all for the comic effect of ironic detachment, but dammit, I don’t want to be detached from my food. I like fondue. I would and have happily served it to guests in both the traditional cheese and new-fangled chocolate versions. Hell, I might even serve vegan pigs-in-a-blanket at my next party just for fun.
Bring the spicy mustard.
