Archives For fun with food

Instead I have been pounding the virtual pavement looking for a day job to tide me over until things pick up in my culinary life. My new classes at the Pannery don’t begin until April and my gig at school evaporated. I do have a non-cooking job as a stop gap as of yesterday. I’ll be an exam scorer for a company here in town. Should be interesting.

While I was looking for at least semi-gainful employ, I plotted out the Oscar Extravaganza menu with my partner in crime and the husband put together an invitation that was suitably glamorous. The menu sounds worthy of Hollywood party but with some fun twists. It is also a little pricey but I think we will manage as I have become the priestess of quality on the cheap (thanks to Nashville’s burgeoning immigrant population and the bodegas and markets which supply them their foodstuffs).

We are planning on the following, of course the chef, cough, reserves the right to make substitutions depending on availability and cash flow:

A Victoria Cheese Display with accompaniments including home made fig salami
Beef Tenderloin with home made rolls and gorgonzola sauce
Smoked salmon and Trout with accompaniments
Salad Cups with Champagne Vinaigrette
Bagna Cauda with veg
Blini with (domestic!) caviar
Asparagus with proscuitto
Paté en croute
Parmesan popcorn
Spiced cocktail nuts
Mini lemon cheesecakes
Decadent brownies

Technically, I have already begun cooking because the fig salami takes about three weeks to cure. I found the recipe for it in a teeny book on the Italian institution of the enoteca (wine bar). It’s pretty much ground up figs and walnuts moistened with white wine, anise liqueur and balsamic vinegar then allowed to dry into a sliceable salami shape. If it tastes as good as the mixture did before forming and wrapping, it will be fabulous. But, I love figs in any form so there might be a bit of a bias. We will of course take pictures at the event (if one of us remembers) and post all the glorious (or gory) details.

Now to rustle up some lunch.

We are not vegans, Keifel and I. In fact, I think Keifel would live on meat if I allowed such a thing. I am a lapsed vegetarian mostly due to living with a dedicated carnivore. I still avoid the cow. But I cooked primarily vegetarian food for a number of years and we still eat many veg-centered meals. My dear friend, the Divine Miss M, recently turned the big 40 and I had the opportunity to make a completely vegan spread for about 30 people.

I came up with three menu ideas for Miss M and let her choose. One was kind of a Central American themed buffet with tamales and devilled squashes. The second was a Spanish tapas menu with an emphasis on winter warmer veg. The third was a pan-Asian nibbles spread with lots of rolled and stuffed things and some delicious sauces. Miss M chose the Asian menu. Yay!

I loved the idea of the challenge of making an entirely vegan menu. For me it was important, having just spent two years in culinary school and a lifetime of being a food geek girl, that everything taste amazing and that those who were there who weren’t vegan or even necessarily vegetarian would love the food and feel fed. I hate when vegetarians get stuck with carrot sticks and the reverse of when people who are used to having an animal protein as a main feel like the need to stop and eat on the way home.

The menu for the shindig was:
Edamame with sea salt
Napa cabbage and morel mushroom pot stickers
Tofu and ginger garlic veg steamed dumplings
Mushroom and bamboo shoot steamed buns
Steamed zucchini in a walnut sauce
Sesame soba noodles
California rolls with avocado, carrot and cucumber
Vietnamese spring rolls with peanut and soy-mirin sauces
Thai-style fried rice
2 kinds of nut-based vegan cookies, a pecan sandie and an apricot jam poppy seed cookie

I made and froze the pot stickers, the dumplings and buns early in the week to avoid having a lot of hands-on stuff at the party locale because the California rolls and the spring rolls had to be done on site at the last minute.

Things went very smoothly and all the food went out at the right time except the California rolls and I did those as people were beginning to eat. It was a little more hectic for me not having my usual partner in crime there to manage the non-food aspect of things but I did have a lot of help from Miss M (despite a nagging cough) and from our hostess. They got everything arranged on the table which would have put me over the edge stress wise.

It was a great evening though I did spend a lot of it in the kitchen. I think people were feeling a little guilty that I was rallied ’round the stove most of the evening, but I am finding (and maybe this is a catering thing) that I like being a little removed from the meat of the party when I am doing the food. I feel a little panicky if I sit for too long afraid that a tray is empty or a bowl of goodies needs refilled. It may also be my weirdnesses around crowds and my preferences for partying with a small, tight-knit group over lots of peeps.

Everyone seemed to love the food and I think a few people were surprised that it was entirely vegan. Making an Asian inspired menu vegan isn’t too tough. The biggest thing I had to avoid with the Thai and Vietnamese dishes was a fish sauce, which is admittedly a pretty important part of the flavor profiles of those cuisines. The saltiness of soy definitely worked in its place.

Our hostess with the mostess said that she was watching people fill their plates and pointing out which sauces to eat with what and lots of “did you try these?” That always makes a girl feel good and, if you know me you know that I always tend to over cook a bit (as Nigella says “Never knowingly undercatered”). There was very little food left. A few California rolls and some of the veg for fillings. Oh, and some cookies. Either I am hitting the mark better or those were some happily hungry folks. Yay!.

All in all, I felt really good about it and happy that Miss M could eat everything at her party with no worries. We did have a few other peeps with various intolerances but they were able to eat many things despite some pretty difficult things to avoid with Asian dishes, namely sesame, soy, wheat and corn. Okay, corn wasn’t too difficult because I don’t generally buy corn-syrup sweetened anything. There are pictures that Miss M took with a film camera. (Hint, hint, Miss M, I’d love one when you get them developed).

Zucchini with Walnut Sauce

½ cup konbu dashi (made by boiling a small piece of konbu in water for 10 minutes)
2 Tablespoons tamari
2 Tablespoons sake or Mirin
1 teaspoon honey or golden syrup or sugar
½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
½ teaspoon white miso
1 cup walnuts toasted
3 medium zucchini, cut into 2×1/2” matchsticks
1 teaspoon sesame seeds

In a saucepan, combine the dashi, soy sauce, Mirin, sugar, and ginger. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the miso and turn the heat very low (don’t allow miso to boil), keeping the sauce warm with no bubbles. In a food processor, grind the walnuts to a meal and stir in to the sauce. Lightly steam the zucchini until tender crisp. Drain and toss with sauce. Serve hot or cold. Garnish with sesame seeds.

Sushi, sushi

victoria —  January 17, 2007 — Leave a comment

Okay. I am NOT a sushi chef, not even close not by a long shot through a flaming tube being carried by inebriated penguins. That may be a little over the top, but the point I’m trying to make is that one doesn’t whip out a few California rolls (even pretty ones) then suddenly become a sushi chef. Real sushi chefs start out scrubbing counters long before they even touch a knife. All I really know how to do is make California rolls and a couple hand rolls. But I do love the little seaweed covered discs and even though I am not worthy to touch even the lowliest Nashville sushi chef’s apron, mine are tasty if decidedly non-traditional and limited in variety and they are much, much less expensive than even a couple rolls at a sushi bar.

I know, California rolls are not traditional Japanese sushi, but they do have a provenance that generally includes avocado and has the rice on the outside. The ones I make usually are called Philadelphia rolls (cream cheese and smoked salmon, though I include some chili paste for kick). I also make vegetable ones with carrots and cucumber. I like the rice seasoning mixes on the outside of my California-style rolls. Usually the one with wasabi, sesame seeds and nori flakes. If you have a shellfish allergic person who will be eating the rolls, check to make sure the seasoning doesn’t have dried shrimps and if you are using surimi (imitation crab) check the ingredients list as sometimes it does contain some (only a tiny amount, but enough to cause a reaction) real crab.

I have also been experimenting with wasabi sculptures. I have the leaves down pretty well but I tried to make a cartoony fish to match my new sushi dishes. It’s so-so. I sadly don’t have any pictures of leaves I’ve done.


My sorta geeky fish


Mmmm. Smoked fish and seaweed!


Seriously cute sushi plates and chopsticks

I love the plates and the chopsticks are too cute with their puzzle piece fish decoration. The fact that they are plastic makes them a little harder to use as they are obviously a little slicker than wooden ones. However, I would much prefer slick plastic chopsticks (even in restaurants) to the disposable wooden kind. Too many trees are felled to supply disposable wooden chopsticks, ask for bamboo or reusable plastic, pretty please.

Christmas was lovely, quietly spent at my mom’s. We did have to dash back for work today, bleh. But we got the weekend to spend with friends and family. On arrival yesterday we prepped for the Boxing Day party while Keifel added all the new pressie books to the Delicious Library database.

Today, I dashed by the grocery for those things I forgot to pick up or couldn’t pick up on Friday and came home and cooked up some goodies. I had made all the dips and spreads yesterday so they could meld and mellow. Today was mostly the mains, starches and salads. And while I did all of that Keifel and the Carpenter went to pick up the couch that we bought on Friday to put in our couchless living room. Couchless because after purchasing the couch on Friday, we came home and disassembled the futon of Doom and carted its broken hiney off to Good Will. Thankfully CSG and Carpenter brought folding chairs as backup, but the couch did arrive in time for its debut at the party.

A Boxing Day Menu
Hummus
Pumpkin dip with cumin and caraway
Eggplant, green pepper and walnut spread
Pita breads and seeded flat breads
Marinated olives
Bulghur salad with cucumber and feta
Carrot and orange salad
Moroccan chicken with olives and sultanas
Red lentil soup
Fruited couscous
Dried fruit tray with halva
The remainder of the Christmas goodies
Black Cake
Oranges and Amaretti
Assorted beers and cider
Blackberry Italian sodas
Mint tea

Keifel was on the ball and got pictures of everything, including the couchless living room:


If we don’t get the couch we could just get more shelves for books

IMG_0579.JPG
Dear, that’s hummus not a face mask.


Please find enclosed: some drunken sheeps, pigs and cows between the rum and bourbon balls


More desserts and the fruited cheese ball my mom sent (that’s black cake on the stand)


Sadly, I did not get the NASCAR Crock Pot for Christmas


And the new “tailored-taupe-faux suede sofa”

And on that note, I am bedding down for a long winter’s nap, knowing that I am not cooking for a party until Oscar Night. And to all a good night.

Stollen, not boughten

victoria —  December 17, 2006 — Leave a comment

Another night of baking as my list is dwindling. At this point I am pretty sure I am not going to get to a few things. I have to make the stollen though or my inner Kraut gets all uppity and demands cabbages and sausages.

The Jules was a big help with the stollen this year as he volunteered to knead the dough (it’s one of those I insist be done by hand — I know I have issues) and I made only one instead of the double recipe in years past. I also soaked the fruits in boiling water and brandy before adding them to the dough. Fruits this year consisted of homemade candied orange peel, dried cranberries and chopped dried apricots. I usually add raisins or currants but I couldn’t find either in my larder and I had all this other dried fruit to use. It required extra flour to soak up the brandied fruit juice but the stollen is much lighter than before and rose beautifully. I also went back to the roll of marzipan in the middle over chunks of marzipan in the dough and I think I much prefer it. Besides, it looks cool sliced with the circle of marzipan in the fold of the loaf.

Wherein we completed the kneading of the stollen


Wherein our heroes completed the baking of the stollen

Oh, one other addition: with the vanilla, I added 1 teaspoon of orange flower water. I had read about it being used in pannetone somewhere and thought it would add to the stollen. I can’t tell if it is the strength of the home candied peel or the orange flower water but the citrus note is lovely.

Whereupon it snowed of the powdered sugar


When we did feast upon part of the stollen (and cleaved it to show the gentle readers the wondrous marzipan middle)

(Not that I or foodieporn encourages anyone to drink to excess and for heaven’s sake, call a cab if you do, dammit)

To encourage your pre-Christmas relaxing and, I am hopeful, a giggle as well:

Victoria’s Version of the Ina Garten Drinking Game
Don’t get me wrong, I love the Contessa, in all her Hampton’s diva-ness. She is truly a goddess among women and I have some serious kitchen envy.

Sit down to your favorite or the current episode of The Barefoot Contessa with your drink of choice and take a sip when Ina:
1. uses something obviously purchased at Williams-Sonoma (the towels are easy, but it is virtually the whole kitchen so you might want to take very tiny sips).
2. asks, “How easy is that?” or “How bad can that be?” or some other version of those.
3. makes food that looks kind of messy but you’re okay with it.
4. does the little, crazy laugh that doesn’t sound completely genuine (but must be or someone on the production team would have made her stop a long time ago).
5. double-kisses any of her friends.
6. doesn’t scrape out the bowl and you know there is a whole brownie/cookie or half a cake left in there.
7. walks outside barefoot to pick flowers, you know, to emphasis the barefoot thing in the Barefoot Contessa.

Now that you are getting your buzz on, take a shot or a big drink whenever Ina:
1. starts a recipe with a pound of butter.
2. has someone over to do the table while she cooks.
3. is given flowers by a lovely gay man.
4. works in the fact that she lives in East Hampton (full disclosure: this is lifted from other versions of the game I have seen online, I just can’t remember where but it needs to be included)
5. makes something that she mentions she has made a million times and Geoffrey acts as if he had never eaten it before.
6. makes a pork loin or adds bacon to a dish for a Jewish religious holiday (obviously she doesn’t keep a kosher kitchen but I find it interesting nonetheless).

Now that you are well and truly sauced you can either lie down on the couch and forget about the nine thousand things you need to do to get ready for Christmas or you can doddle into the kitchen and make what you think are the most perfect gingerbread peeps. Of course, tomorrow you may find they are mostly torsos or Cyclopses, but the house will smell pretty good, unless of course you burnt the gingerbread.

Music in the kitchen

victoria —  December 11, 2006 — 1 Comment

One question you see often in interviews with professional and celebrity chefs alike is if they listen to music in the kitchen and, if so, what. I have two distinct cooking playlists. If it is a professional gig and I am stressed to the nines about getting everything done, I tend to listen to classical as the soothing strains tend to make me less stressed. If it’s personal/family cooking, I usually listen to Celtic music or my faves playlist which is pretty heavy on the 80s cheese.

Since I can’t mail all my readers a Christmas goodies package, I’ve put together a little foodieporn inspired Mix Tape (boy, does that date me), a bakers’ dozen of musical goodness. Most of the songs should be available through iTunes music store or some such.

Victoria’s Foodieporn Holiday Playlist (in no particular order)

1. “One Cup of Coffee” — either the original by Bob Marley or the Damien Marley cover
A nice little ditty about trying to get out of signing the divorce papers over a cup of Joe.

2. “Autumngirlsoup” — Kirsty MacColl, may she rest in peace and find justice

3. “Milk Shake” — Kelis
I debated this one, but I have to admit that I do tend to turn it up when it cycles through the iPod.

4. “Lemon Pie” — The Floating Men
Sadly they have disbanded, but I used to attend their New Year’s Eve show at the Sandbar (also gone) in Chattanooga back in the day.

5. “Black Coffee in Bed” — Squeeze
There does seem to be a preponderance of songs about or with coffee in the title…

6. “Constant Craving” — k. d. lang
Ok, not about food… obviously not about food, but are any songs about food really about food?

7. “Then You Can Tell Me Goodbye” — the Casinos
Also not about food, but has the great line “sweeten my coffee/with a morning kiss.” It’s also on Keifel’s and my wedding mix CD

8. “Wildberry Pie” — David Wilcox
Very sentimental and slightly cheesy and a little bit dirty but sweet nonetheless

9. “Too Many Cooks in the Kitchen” — XTC
Just because any mix I put together invariably has an XTC song, ’cause I’m geeky that way.

10. “The Boar’s Head” — The Chieftains
It is, after all, a holiday mix and it’s Celtic to boot, so there.

11. “Sugarbush Cushman” — Poi Dog Pondering
A sweet little song about maple syrup and love

12. “Tupelo Honey” — Van Morrison
Because he is fabulous and the song has tea and honey in it and because, like XTC, any Victoria mix has to have some Van

13. “Cheeseburger in Paradise” — Jimmy Buffet
I know it’s the ultimate in cheese, and probably predictable, to boot, but the Jules suggested it and it does speak to the inner hedonist in us all, and even non-beef eating me gets a wild craving for a burger every now and then.

And I think we may have cracked the code this year, though the cakes still aren’t exactly black. Keifel and I documented the saga for your amusement, I mean, enjoyment.

The first thing you have to do is go to the grocery and buy lots of limes, three pounds of butter, 2 dozen eggs, 3 pounds of natural sugar and 3 pounds of flour. And when you are measuring it all out, your husband will have to run to Walgreen’s in the middle of the night to get replacement batteries for the scale that turns out to not be working.

The butter has to soften at room temperature for awhile (when room temperature in your abode is hovering at 63°F, it won’t soften much). I asked the Jules to open all the butter and set it out on the counter, he took that as a brief to build Butter Henge.


Cue the airy-fairy spooky British plains music here

While the butter is trying to soften, you need to line four springform pans with brown paper (it helps to ask for paper sacks at the grocery when you forget to bring your cloth bags, so you can stock up) and then with parchment paper. This part is always a bit of a chore but it does protect the bottom of the cakes from getting too dark. This year I also added a layer of foil between the bottom and the pan and the ring. Despite my valiant efforts the cakes still burnt on the bottoms (mumble, mumble, crappy oven, mumble, mumble).


I got a gold star for my scissor work

After you have cleared away the ruins of Butter Henge and prepared your pans, it is time to separate the eggs, all twenty four of them. I don’t go in for any gadgetry here, fingers were made before egg separators. I also don’t do the shell half to shell half thing because I always wind up breaking the yolk and even one tiny drop of yellow in the sea of 24 egg whites will make them not whip.


Lots and lots of egg carcasses


To paraphase Gracie Burns, “The recipe says to separate the eggs, but it doesn’t say how far.”

I almost forgot one thing you have to do before you even get to the store. You need to go to restaurant supply and buy a 33 quart mixing bowl. Last year we had to sterilize one of the laundry baskets (with no holes in it) and mix the cake in that.


That is a shiny, big bowl

With the eggs separated, the bowl purchased, the butter softened and the sugar weighed out, you begin creaming together the sugar and butter. You then realize you should have bought a wooden spoon at the restaurant supply that was up to the task of mixing in a 33 quart bowl.


The tiny spoon stuck into the first half pound of butter and sugar

While you are creaming butter and sugar, your husband runs to Walgreens, returns with the new batteries and measures out the flour. He wipes flour on your face and you retaliate.


It helps for artistic contrast that your husband lives in black t-shirts

After all the sugar and butter are creamed together, you whip the egg whites with the zest of the limes and make a very full, frothy bowl of green eggs. For scale, I have a 14-cup Kitchen-Aid Pro.


Even Sam I Am would be intimidated

The next step is to alternate adding flour and baking powder with the marinated fruits to the butter/sugar mixture. This means it is time to crack open the jar of boozy goodness. The fruits were ground (in my mother’s old-school meat grinder) last Christmas and doused with a bottle of Beaujolais and a bottle of cheap rum. They have been lurking in the bottom of my fridge since.


If only we had Smell-o-Vision you too could experience the heady waft of booze-pickled ground raisins, et al

Then there is mixing, lots of mixing.



As you can see we did employ the hand mixer to get things rolling along. We then cheated by adding bottled browning (ingredients: caramelized sugar). We apparently needed two bottles but one went in. Keifel commented that the picture looked like a superimposed before and after browning with my pale arm and his dark one.


Who needs sunless tanner

After the browning goes in, you fold in all those egg whites, again realizing that a bigger spatula may be in order.


Cut and turn, cut and turn

After all the ingredients have been incorporated, you divide the batter between the four prepared pans. It would be simpler if our pans were all the same size, but they are not so we make do.


Keifel’s grandmother’s recipe as dictated to his mother

The recipe says the cakes should bake for an hour or so. In our craptastically decrepit oven that translates to nearly two hours of swapping them back and forth to keep the ones on the bottom from carbonizing. But we triumphed. Only the bottoms got dark.


The top looks a little weird because I just poured more rum over and the cake hadn’t absorbed it yet

After the cakes are cooled, remove them from the pans and their swaddling and douse liberally with not as cheap rum. Wrap them tightly and feed them alcohol until Christmas. We usually send one to Trinidad to Keifel’s mother and grandmother for Easter (it’s a long story), one or a part of one to S.C. to enjoy with her family and friends and comment on how it isn’t really black cake (this is not a dig, as everyone in the Caribbean has their own cherished family recipe and if it isn’t like Auntie So&So’s, it ain’t black cake. It’s like the chili and BBQ thing here), one is usually divided up and sent to and fro to various and sundry and we have one to serve at the Boxing Day party. This year one went to CMT for their international/diversity party and was thoroughly enjoyed. It made me happy that the other Trini in the office was so excited about it and was thrilled when Keifel told her to take the rest of the cake home with her. Now that is a complement.

***In other holiday baking news, I purchased my pig cookie cutter and Jules and I made the pepperkakor dough last night. It has to chill overnight because you melt the butter to mix it all in. I will bake those off today in between loads of laundry and hopefully knock out a few other things. I can’t make the brownies until next week for the family shindig because they really only keep a few days. I need more half-sheet pans before I make them, too. I never have enough baking sheets this time of year. Hope everyone is well and that your houses smell of holiday cheer of the baking or the greenery variety.

Planning for the Holidays

victoria —  November 20, 2006 — 2 Comments

Making a list and checking it twice isn’t just for St. Nick anymore. I plotted out what goodies I will be making for my near and dear and the far and dear as well. I have a month and a half of baking ahead. Here’s the list. I’ll be happy to pass along recipe or sources if anyone is interested. You can email at victoria at foodieporn dot com.

Baking and Confectionary:
Trinidad black cake
The amazing triple chocolate brownies (my siblings get these every year and are addicted)
Pecan sandies with cooked sugar icing (my oldest brother’s wife’s faves)
Stollen
Glazed chestnuts
Pannetone
Lebkuchen with almond flour
Rum balls
Chocolate bourbon balls
Gingerbread men
Decorated sugar cookies (mostly snowflakes this year, I think. I bought one of those cutter sets with little tiny cutters)
Speculaas windmills (if I get around to actually ordering the mold)
Pfeffernusse
Spritz cookies
Pepperkakor (Swedish gingerbread, if I get the pig cookie cutter in time)
White chocolate Mexican wedding cookies
Almond mice
Angel food candy
Peanut butter chocolate kiss cookies
Panforte
Zimsterne
Chocolate truffles, various flavors
Basler Leckerli (another type of gingerbread… do you see a theme here?)
Mincemeat pies with Irish whiskey
Checkerboard cookies
Crackle cookies

In addition to all of that, I have stuff to make for this weekend for the turkey feasts we are attending (2) and we are having people to our house Thanksgiving morning for crepes and the Macy’s parade. Joie de Vivre also has a catering gig on December 2nd for 45 people for tapas. And we are having the Boxing Day party as an evening open house since Christmas falls on a weekday this year and everyone has to go back to the grind on Tuesday.

I was joking with Julian last night and he asked if he was the only one who enjoyed all the baking and I honestly told him no, I enjoy it, too, or I wouldn’t set myself such a list. Today is the day for making things that need to age: rum balls, bourbon balls, gingerbreads. But first there is work, then the gym and Power Point homework.

I will try to remember to take pictures and post as much of the chaos as I can. Let the holidays begin (but dammit don’t start playing “Rudolph” and “White Christmas” until after Thanksgiving. I like my holidays one at a time, thankyouverymuch.

Happy Halloween!

victoria —  October 31, 2006 — Leave a comment

I do love Halloween. I love it in its more homespun, home made guise over the commercial juggernaut it has become (it is the second biggest spending holiday after Christmas). What happened to bobbing for apples and home made, closet raid costumes? What happened to burnt cork beards and trick or treating with a pillow case?

Anyway, Julian and I made Halloween cookies last night for Keifel’s work trick or treating. We, well, I really, went a little Martha on them, but I love playing in icing.


Close up of Frankenstein’s monster’s head


Close up of owls and graves


Ghosts, cats, and pumpkins

The downside of Halloween cookies is the copious amounts of black frosting that make your mouth look like you’ve been bleeding internally for days. Nothing like cute little kids running around with red-black teeth.