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Instead I have been pounding the virtual pavement looking for a day job to tide me over until things pick up in my culinary life. My new classes at the Pannery don’t begin until April and my gig at school evaporated. I do have a non-cooking job as a stop gap as of yesterday. I’ll be an exam scorer for a company here in town. Should be interesting.

While I was looking for at least semi-gainful employ, I plotted out the Oscar Extravaganza menu with my partner in crime and the husband put together an invitation that was suitably glamorous. The menu sounds worthy of Hollywood party but with some fun twists. It is also a little pricey but I think we will manage as I have become the priestess of quality on the cheap (thanks to Nashville’s burgeoning immigrant population and the bodegas and markets which supply them their foodstuffs).

We are planning on the following, of course the chef, cough, reserves the right to make substitutions depending on availability and cash flow:

A Victoria Cheese Display with accompaniments including home made fig salami
Beef Tenderloin with home made rolls and gorgonzola sauce
Smoked salmon and Trout with accompaniments
Salad Cups with Champagne Vinaigrette
Bagna Cauda with veg
Blini with (domestic!) caviar
Asparagus with proscuitto
Paté en croute
Parmesan popcorn
Spiced cocktail nuts
Mini lemon cheesecakes
Decadent brownies

Technically, I have already begun cooking because the fig salami takes about three weeks to cure. I found the recipe for it in a teeny book on the Italian institution of the enoteca (wine bar). It’s pretty much ground up figs and walnuts moistened with white wine, anise liqueur and balsamic vinegar then allowed to dry into a sliceable salami shape. If it tastes as good as the mixture did before forming and wrapping, it will be fabulous. But, I love figs in any form so there might be a bit of a bias. We will of course take pictures at the event (if one of us remembers) and post all the glorious (or gory) details.

Now to rustle up some lunch.

We are not vegans, Keifel and I. In fact, I think Keifel would live on meat if I allowed such a thing. I am a lapsed vegetarian mostly due to living with a dedicated carnivore. I still avoid the cow. But I cooked primarily vegetarian food for a number of years and we still eat many veg-centered meals. My dear friend, the Divine Miss M, recently turned the big 40 and I had the opportunity to make a completely vegan spread for about 30 people.

I came up with three menu ideas for Miss M and let her choose. One was kind of a Central American themed buffet with tamales and devilled squashes. The second was a Spanish tapas menu with an emphasis on winter warmer veg. The third was a pan-Asian nibbles spread with lots of rolled and stuffed things and some delicious sauces. Miss M chose the Asian menu. Yay!

I loved the idea of the challenge of making an entirely vegan menu. For me it was important, having just spent two years in culinary school and a lifetime of being a food geek girl, that everything taste amazing and that those who were there who weren’t vegan or even necessarily vegetarian would love the food and feel fed. I hate when vegetarians get stuck with carrot sticks and the reverse of when people who are used to having an animal protein as a main feel like the need to stop and eat on the way home.

The menu for the shindig was:
Edamame with sea salt
Napa cabbage and morel mushroom pot stickers
Tofu and ginger garlic veg steamed dumplings
Mushroom and bamboo shoot steamed buns
Steamed zucchini in a walnut sauce
Sesame soba noodles
California rolls with avocado, carrot and cucumber
Vietnamese spring rolls with peanut and soy-mirin sauces
Thai-style fried rice
2 kinds of nut-based vegan cookies, a pecan sandie and an apricot jam poppy seed cookie

I made and froze the pot stickers, the dumplings and buns early in the week to avoid having a lot of hands-on stuff at the party locale because the California rolls and the spring rolls had to be done on site at the last minute.

Things went very smoothly and all the food went out at the right time except the California rolls and I did those as people were beginning to eat. It was a little more hectic for me not having my usual partner in crime there to manage the non-food aspect of things but I did have a lot of help from Miss M (despite a nagging cough) and from our hostess. They got everything arranged on the table which would have put me over the edge stress wise.

It was a great evening though I did spend a lot of it in the kitchen. I think people were feeling a little guilty that I was rallied ’round the stove most of the evening, but I am finding (and maybe this is a catering thing) that I like being a little removed from the meat of the party when I am doing the food. I feel a little panicky if I sit for too long afraid that a tray is empty or a bowl of goodies needs refilled. It may also be my weirdnesses around crowds and my preferences for partying with a small, tight-knit group over lots of peeps.

Everyone seemed to love the food and I think a few people were surprised that it was entirely vegan. Making an Asian inspired menu vegan isn’t too tough. The biggest thing I had to avoid with the Thai and Vietnamese dishes was a fish sauce, which is admittedly a pretty important part of the flavor profiles of those cuisines. The saltiness of soy definitely worked in its place.

Our hostess with the mostess said that she was watching people fill their plates and pointing out which sauces to eat with what and lots of “did you try these?” That always makes a girl feel good and, if you know me you know that I always tend to over cook a bit (as Nigella says “Never knowingly undercatered”). There was very little food left. A few California rolls and some of the veg for fillings. Oh, and some cookies. Either I am hitting the mark better or those were some happily hungry folks. Yay!.

All in all, I felt really good about it and happy that Miss M could eat everything at her party with no worries. We did have a few other peeps with various intolerances but they were able to eat many things despite some pretty difficult things to avoid with Asian dishes, namely sesame, soy, wheat and corn. Okay, corn wasn’t too difficult because I don’t generally buy corn-syrup sweetened anything. There are pictures that Miss M took with a film camera. (Hint, hint, Miss M, I’d love one when you get them developed).

Zucchini with Walnut Sauce

½ cup konbu dashi (made by boiling a small piece of konbu in water for 10 minutes)
2 Tablespoons tamari
2 Tablespoons sake or Mirin
1 teaspoon honey or golden syrup or sugar
½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
½ teaspoon white miso
1 cup walnuts toasted
3 medium zucchini, cut into 2×1/2” matchsticks
1 teaspoon sesame seeds

In a saucepan, combine the dashi, soy sauce, Mirin, sugar, and ginger. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the miso and turn the heat very low (don’t allow miso to boil), keeping the sauce warm with no bubbles. In a food processor, grind the walnuts to a meal and stir in to the sauce. Lightly steam the zucchini until tender crisp. Drain and toss with sauce. Serve hot or cold. Garnish with sesame seeds.

Sushi, sushi

victoria —  January 17, 2007 — Leave a comment

Okay. I am NOT a sushi chef, not even close not by a long shot through a flaming tube being carried by inebriated penguins. That may be a little over the top, but the point I’m trying to make is that one doesn’t whip out a few California rolls (even pretty ones) then suddenly become a sushi chef. Real sushi chefs start out scrubbing counters long before they even touch a knife. All I really know how to do is make California rolls and a couple hand rolls. But I do love the little seaweed covered discs and even though I am not worthy to touch even the lowliest Nashville sushi chef’s apron, mine are tasty if decidedly non-traditional and limited in variety and they are much, much less expensive than even a couple rolls at a sushi bar.

I know, California rolls are not traditional Japanese sushi, but they do have a provenance that generally includes avocado and has the rice on the outside. The ones I make usually are called Philadelphia rolls (cream cheese and smoked salmon, though I include some chili paste for kick). I also make vegetable ones with carrots and cucumber. I like the rice seasoning mixes on the outside of my California-style rolls. Usually the one with wasabi, sesame seeds and nori flakes. If you have a shellfish allergic person who will be eating the rolls, check to make sure the seasoning doesn’t have dried shrimps and if you are using surimi (imitation crab) check the ingredients list as sometimes it does contain some (only a tiny amount, but enough to cause a reaction) real crab.

I have also been experimenting with wasabi sculptures. I have the leaves down pretty well but I tried to make a cartoony fish to match my new sushi dishes. It’s so-so. I sadly don’t have any pictures of leaves I’ve done.


My sorta geeky fish


Mmmm. Smoked fish and seaweed!


Seriously cute sushi plates and chopsticks

I love the plates and the chopsticks are too cute with their puzzle piece fish decoration. The fact that they are plastic makes them a little harder to use as they are obviously a little slicker than wooden ones. However, I would much prefer slick plastic chopsticks (even in restaurants) to the disposable wooden kind. Too many trees are felled to supply disposable wooden chopsticks, ask for bamboo or reusable plastic, pretty please.

Well, not in love so much as enamored of his wit and bad boy charm. I read Kitchen Confidential when it came out and thoroughly enjoyed it despite never wanting to darken the door of a restaurant again lest I be fed something someone had been having sex on top of in the walk-in. I was also interested in reading his mysteries but have yet to get around to that.

When No Reservations began, I caught a few here and there. You see, I swore off bad boys a while back. Now I prefer those who look like bad boys but really aren’t (Exhibit A being my husband). So, lest I get tempted, you understand, I kind of avoided Mr. Bourdain. Plus, I had already over programmed the DVR.

But lately, I find myself scarfing up episodes of No Reservations like a Bourdain junkie. It started with him being trapped in Lebanon during the Israeli attacks (is that the PC term? do I care if that’s the PC term?). He suddenly seemed, I don’t know, a little braver and a little more human all at once. Yes, I guess, eating the still beating heart of a cobra is brave on some level, but not in my universe. Here, it just seems brazenly perverse. Anyway, then I saw the Sweden episode. Tony among my people, doing something I really would love to do as I have never had the fortune to go to the Old Country. I was hooked.

Now I am into the current season (just watched Ghana and it was wonderful) and catching repeats as I can. Who knew? But I do tend to find chefs fascinating (obviously) and bad boy, rock-star status chefs who can write and have a rapier wit but know when to reign it all in and be a gracious guest, well who can resist? Besides a bad boy who can hold down multiple jobs and tone it down when necessary? Not such a bad boy, but definitely an intriguing man.

Okay, that was a lousy Oliver Twist, but I did want to show off the new additions to my cooking library. I hear from my sister that I am a hard person to buy for in the kitchen department, though she did manage to find an adorable little sushi set for my birthday that I love. But cookbooks? Ah, I do have definite favorites as far as authors and subjects. But I am also a sucker for deeply researched or gorgeously photographed books by authors unknown and cuisines uncooked.

I’ve been collecting the Könemann Culinaria books for a few years and I was having trouble finding three or four of them. I had even written to the publisher in Germany to find out about the status of the books. The public relations person sent me a lovely email and told me about Daedalus Books. They have a wealth of titles in all fields and they are apparently the main buyer of the Culinaria series in the U.S. Anyway, I mentioned it to Keifel and told him which ones I didn’t have and lo and behold (despite the fact that he told me they were out of stock on those particular books and he had gotten other titles) the last three I wanted were under the tree. Plus, he had found the Könemann book on wine on the remainders table at Davis Kidd and bought that as a true surprise (as I didn’t even know it existed).

My other big gift was a Ken Onion Shun chef’s knife. I drooled over it at work at the Pannery. It is a thing of beauty and sharp, sharp, sharp. It has the perfect curve and I love the way it rocks on the board. It’s one of those knives that is so beautiful it makes you think maybe you should paint the cabinets.


Yum!

I love the books from Keifel and my mom and the three I purchased for myself (The Cinnamon Club, The Illustrated History of French Cuisine, Eggs) and I am over the moon about my knife, but the gift that made me cry was the mug the boychick painted for me to replace the one I dropped and broke.


I tried to get it at the right angle but inside it says, “The Best Chef and Mom”

That makes a girl feel truly special.

It’s Official

victoria —  January 6, 2007 — 1 Comment

I am completely done with culinary school, degree conferred, graduated summa cum laude. Yay! It is feeling anti-climactic though in that there wasn’t a December graduation ceremony (not that I would have attended) and I didn’t really tell people I was graduating, well, I am telling now I guess. I had plans for a party but more celebrating during Christmas wasn’t really called for. I’ll have to do something special at some point, but what?

I haven’t received my diploma yet. I guess that will make it seem more real. I am also looking at a new gig that I will talk about later but can’t really divulge at this time to the whole wide world.

Happy new year to all. In the words of John and Yoko, “Let’s hope it’s a good one.”

Christmas was lovely, quietly spent at my mom’s. We did have to dash back for work today, bleh. But we got the weekend to spend with friends and family. On arrival yesterday we prepped for the Boxing Day party while Keifel added all the new pressie books to the Delicious Library database.

Today, I dashed by the grocery for those things I forgot to pick up or couldn’t pick up on Friday and came home and cooked up some goodies. I had made all the dips and spreads yesterday so they could meld and mellow. Today was mostly the mains, starches and salads. And while I did all of that Keifel and the Carpenter went to pick up the couch that we bought on Friday to put in our couchless living room. Couchless because after purchasing the couch on Friday, we came home and disassembled the futon of Doom and carted its broken hiney off to Good Will. Thankfully CSG and Carpenter brought folding chairs as backup, but the couch did arrive in time for its debut at the party.

A Boxing Day Menu
Hummus
Pumpkin dip with cumin and caraway
Eggplant, green pepper and walnut spread
Pita breads and seeded flat breads
Marinated olives
Bulghur salad with cucumber and feta
Carrot and orange salad
Moroccan chicken with olives and sultanas
Red lentil soup
Fruited couscous
Dried fruit tray with halva
The remainder of the Christmas goodies
Black Cake
Oranges and Amaretti
Assorted beers and cider
Blackberry Italian sodas
Mint tea

Keifel was on the ball and got pictures of everything, including the couchless living room:


If we don’t get the couch we could just get more shelves for books

IMG_0579.JPG
Dear, that’s hummus not a face mask.


Please find enclosed: some drunken sheeps, pigs and cows between the rum and bourbon balls


More desserts and the fruited cheese ball my mom sent (that’s black cake on the stand)


Sadly, I did not get the NASCAR Crock Pot for Christmas


And the new “tailored-taupe-faux suede sofa”

And on that note, I am bedding down for a long winter’s nap, knowing that I am not cooking for a party until Oscar Night. And to all a good night.

Stollen, not boughten

victoria —  December 17, 2006 — Leave a comment

Another night of baking as my list is dwindling. At this point I am pretty sure I am not going to get to a few things. I have to make the stollen though or my inner Kraut gets all uppity and demands cabbages and sausages.

The Jules was a big help with the stollen this year as he volunteered to knead the dough (it’s one of those I insist be done by hand — I know I have issues) and I made only one instead of the double recipe in years past. I also soaked the fruits in boiling water and brandy before adding them to the dough. Fruits this year consisted of homemade candied orange peel, dried cranberries and chopped dried apricots. I usually add raisins or currants but I couldn’t find either in my larder and I had all this other dried fruit to use. It required extra flour to soak up the brandied fruit juice but the stollen is much lighter than before and rose beautifully. I also went back to the roll of marzipan in the middle over chunks of marzipan in the dough and I think I much prefer it. Besides, it looks cool sliced with the circle of marzipan in the fold of the loaf.

Wherein we completed the kneading of the stollen


Wherein our heroes completed the baking of the stollen

Oh, one other addition: with the vanilla, I added 1 teaspoon of orange flower water. I had read about it being used in pannetone somewhere and thought it would add to the stollen. I can’t tell if it is the strength of the home candied peel or the orange flower water but the citrus note is lovely.

Whereupon it snowed of the powdered sugar


When we did feast upon part of the stollen (and cleaved it to show the gentle readers the wondrous marzipan middle)

(Not that I or foodieporn encourages anyone to drink to excess and for heaven’s sake, call a cab if you do, dammit)

To encourage your pre-Christmas relaxing and, I am hopeful, a giggle as well:

Victoria’s Version of the Ina Garten Drinking Game
Don’t get me wrong, I love the Contessa, in all her Hampton’s diva-ness. She is truly a goddess among women and I have some serious kitchen envy.

Sit down to your favorite or the current episode of The Barefoot Contessa with your drink of choice and take a sip when Ina:
1. uses something obviously purchased at Williams-Sonoma (the towels are easy, but it is virtually the whole kitchen so you might want to take very tiny sips).
2. asks, “How easy is that?” or “How bad can that be?” or some other version of those.
3. makes food that looks kind of messy but you’re okay with it.
4. does the little, crazy laugh that doesn’t sound completely genuine (but must be or someone on the production team would have made her stop a long time ago).
5. double-kisses any of her friends.
6. doesn’t scrape out the bowl and you know there is a whole brownie/cookie or half a cake left in there.
7. walks outside barefoot to pick flowers, you know, to emphasis the barefoot thing in the Barefoot Contessa.

Now that you are getting your buzz on, take a shot or a big drink whenever Ina:
1. starts a recipe with a pound of butter.
2. has someone over to do the table while she cooks.
3. is given flowers by a lovely gay man.
4. works in the fact that she lives in East Hampton (full disclosure: this is lifted from other versions of the game I have seen online, I just can’t remember where but it needs to be included)
5. makes something that she mentions she has made a million times and Geoffrey acts as if he had never eaten it before.
6. makes a pork loin or adds bacon to a dish for a Jewish religious holiday (obviously she doesn’t keep a kosher kitchen but I find it interesting nonetheless).

Now that you are well and truly sauced you can either lie down on the couch and forget about the nine thousand things you need to do to get ready for Christmas or you can doddle into the kitchen and make what you think are the most perfect gingerbread peeps. Of course, tomorrow you may find they are mostly torsos or Cyclopses, but the house will smell pretty good, unless of course you burnt the gingerbread.

Music in the kitchen

victoria —  December 11, 2006 — 1 Comment

One question you see often in interviews with professional and celebrity chefs alike is if they listen to music in the kitchen and, if so, what. I have two distinct cooking playlists. If it is a professional gig and I am stressed to the nines about getting everything done, I tend to listen to classical as the soothing strains tend to make me less stressed. If it’s personal/family cooking, I usually listen to Celtic music or my faves playlist which is pretty heavy on the 80s cheese.

Since I can’t mail all my readers a Christmas goodies package, I’ve put together a little foodieporn inspired Mix Tape (boy, does that date me), a bakers’ dozen of musical goodness. Most of the songs should be available through iTunes music store or some such.

Victoria’s Foodieporn Holiday Playlist (in no particular order)

1. “One Cup of Coffee” — either the original by Bob Marley or the Damien Marley cover
A nice little ditty about trying to get out of signing the divorce papers over a cup of Joe.

2. “Autumngirlsoup” — Kirsty MacColl, may she rest in peace and find justice

3. “Milk Shake” — Kelis
I debated this one, but I have to admit that I do tend to turn it up when it cycles through the iPod.

4. “Lemon Pie” — The Floating Men
Sadly they have disbanded, but I used to attend their New Year’s Eve show at the Sandbar (also gone) in Chattanooga back in the day.

5. “Black Coffee in Bed” — Squeeze
There does seem to be a preponderance of songs about or with coffee in the title…

6. “Constant Craving” — k. d. lang
Ok, not about food… obviously not about food, but are any songs about food really about food?

7. “Then You Can Tell Me Goodbye” — the Casinos
Also not about food, but has the great line “sweeten my coffee/with a morning kiss.” It’s also on Keifel’s and my wedding mix CD

8. “Wildberry Pie” — David Wilcox
Very sentimental and slightly cheesy and a little bit dirty but sweet nonetheless

9. “Too Many Cooks in the Kitchen” — XTC
Just because any mix I put together invariably has an XTC song, ’cause I’m geeky that way.

10. “The Boar’s Head” — The Chieftains
It is, after all, a holiday mix and it’s Celtic to boot, so there.

11. “Sugarbush Cushman” — Poi Dog Pondering
A sweet little song about maple syrup and love

12. “Tupelo Honey” — Van Morrison
Because he is fabulous and the song has tea and honey in it and because, like XTC, any Victoria mix has to have some Van

13. “Cheeseburger in Paradise” — Jimmy Buffet
I know it’s the ultimate in cheese, and probably predictable, to boot, but the Jules suggested it and it does speak to the inner hedonist in us all, and even non-beef eating me gets a wild craving for a burger every now and then.