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And I think we may have cracked the code this year, though the cakes still aren’t exactly black. Keifel and I documented the saga for your amusement, I mean, enjoyment.

The first thing you have to do is go to the grocery and buy lots of limes, three pounds of butter, 2 dozen eggs, 3 pounds of natural sugar and 3 pounds of flour. And when you are measuring it all out, your husband will have to run to Walgreen’s in the middle of the night to get replacement batteries for the scale that turns out to not be working.

The butter has to soften at room temperature for awhile (when room temperature in your abode is hovering at 63°F, it won’t soften much). I asked the Jules to open all the butter and set it out on the counter, he took that as a brief to build Butter Henge.


Cue the airy-fairy spooky British plains music here

While the butter is trying to soften, you need to line four springform pans with brown paper (it helps to ask for paper sacks at the grocery when you forget to bring your cloth bags, so you can stock up) and then with parchment paper. This part is always a bit of a chore but it does protect the bottom of the cakes from getting too dark. This year I also added a layer of foil between the bottom and the pan and the ring. Despite my valiant efforts the cakes still burnt on the bottoms (mumble, mumble, crappy oven, mumble, mumble).


I got a gold star for my scissor work

After you have cleared away the ruins of Butter Henge and prepared your pans, it is time to separate the eggs, all twenty four of them. I don’t go in for any gadgetry here, fingers were made before egg separators. I also don’t do the shell half to shell half thing because I always wind up breaking the yolk and even one tiny drop of yellow in the sea of 24 egg whites will make them not whip.


Lots and lots of egg carcasses


To paraphase Gracie Burns, “The recipe says to separate the eggs, but it doesn’t say how far.”

I almost forgot one thing you have to do before you even get to the store. You need to go to restaurant supply and buy a 33 quart mixing bowl. Last year we had to sterilize one of the laundry baskets (with no holes in it) and mix the cake in that.


That is a shiny, big bowl

With the eggs separated, the bowl purchased, the butter softened and the sugar weighed out, you begin creaming together the sugar and butter. You then realize you should have bought a wooden spoon at the restaurant supply that was up to the task of mixing in a 33 quart bowl.


The tiny spoon stuck into the first half pound of butter and sugar

While you are creaming butter and sugar, your husband runs to Walgreens, returns with the new batteries and measures out the flour. He wipes flour on your face and you retaliate.


It helps for artistic contrast that your husband lives in black t-shirts

After all the sugar and butter are creamed together, you whip the egg whites with the zest of the limes and make a very full, frothy bowl of green eggs. For scale, I have a 14-cup Kitchen-Aid Pro.


Even Sam I Am would be intimidated

The next step is to alternate adding flour and baking powder with the marinated fruits to the butter/sugar mixture. This means it is time to crack open the jar of boozy goodness. The fruits were ground (in my mother’s old-school meat grinder) last Christmas and doused with a bottle of Beaujolais and a bottle of cheap rum. They have been lurking in the bottom of my fridge since.


If only we had Smell-o-Vision you too could experience the heady waft of booze-pickled ground raisins, et al

Then there is mixing, lots of mixing.



As you can see we did employ the hand mixer to get things rolling along. We then cheated by adding bottled browning (ingredients: caramelized sugar). We apparently needed two bottles but one went in. Keifel commented that the picture looked like a superimposed before and after browning with my pale arm and his dark one.


Who needs sunless tanner

After the browning goes in, you fold in all those egg whites, again realizing that a bigger spatula may be in order.


Cut and turn, cut and turn

After all the ingredients have been incorporated, you divide the batter between the four prepared pans. It would be simpler if our pans were all the same size, but they are not so we make do.


Keifel’s grandmother’s recipe as dictated to his mother

The recipe says the cakes should bake for an hour or so. In our craptastically decrepit oven that translates to nearly two hours of swapping them back and forth to keep the ones on the bottom from carbonizing. But we triumphed. Only the bottoms got dark.


The top looks a little weird because I just poured more rum over and the cake hadn’t absorbed it yet

After the cakes are cooled, remove them from the pans and their swaddling and douse liberally with not as cheap rum. Wrap them tightly and feed them alcohol until Christmas. We usually send one to Trinidad to Keifel’s mother and grandmother for Easter (it’s a long story), one or a part of one to S.C. to enjoy with her family and friends and comment on how it isn’t really black cake (this is not a dig, as everyone in the Caribbean has their own cherished family recipe and if it isn’t like Auntie So&So’s, it ain’t black cake. It’s like the chili and BBQ thing here), one is usually divided up and sent to and fro to various and sundry and we have one to serve at the Boxing Day party. This year one went to CMT for their international/diversity party and was thoroughly enjoyed. It made me happy that the other Trini in the office was so excited about it and was thrilled when Keifel told her to take the rest of the cake home with her. Now that is a complement.

***In other holiday baking news, I purchased my pig cookie cutter and Jules and I made the pepperkakor dough last night. It has to chill overnight because you melt the butter to mix it all in. I will bake those off today in between loads of laundry and hopefully knock out a few other things. I can’t make the brownies until next week for the family shindig because they really only keep a few days. I need more half-sheet pans before I make them, too. I never have enough baking sheets this time of year. Hope everyone is well and that your houses smell of holiday cheer of the baking or the greenery variety.

A thing I have learned over the weekend: when one has a big catering gig, one should hope that one’s child does not become ill and that one’s husband does not have his wisdom teeth out and is therefore drugged loopy.

Despite the severe reduction in the time I had to prepare for the party it seemed to be a smashing success. I did about four days worth of work in about 20 hours with some help from J.C. (meaning my catering business partner, not the Big Guy upstairs, though assistance from any quarter would have been taken gladly). We managed to throw down some seriously beautiful and tasty food.

The menu for the Tapas party was:

Smoked paprika cocktail almonds
Potato tortilla (Spanish omelet)
Serrano ham and wild mushroom barquetas
Baccalà (salt cod spread) with toasts
Chopped salad cups w/ sherry vinaigrette
Gazpacho blanco shooters
Three cheese Spanish cheese board with Manchego, Idiazabal, and Spanish Drunken Goat with two types of figs, roasted red peppers, water crackers, Marcona almonds, and membrillo (that I made, go me)
Basque-style pork tenderloin with yeast biscuits and saffron aïoli (also made by me)
Madeira cake with sherried whipped cream and candied orange peel
Crème Brulée Trio: coffee, pomegranate and vanilla bean

Friday was a mad dash of doing everything I could do not on the day of. J.C. picked up the pork tenderloins and brined them. I didn’t even get started until 1:00 because I was at the oral surgeons with Keifel that morning and then Jules had to go get a strep test because he couldn’t swallow his own spit. I got home, got them cozy and got to work. I knocked out the candied orange peel, membrillo, almonds, vinaigrette, cake, crème part of the crème brulée and something else (my memory is a little fuzzy from the way-too-much-coffee delirium).

Saturday, I got up at 5:30-6ish and chopped all the veg for the chopped salad. Then I went to school and taught for four hours. Back to the grind until right up to the second we had to leave. I was still searing off the tenderloins as J.C., Keifel and the Jules (now, thankfully, healthier) were loading out.

We got there, hauled all the gear up the outdoor deck stairs and had everything plated about 10 minutes late. Again, thankfully, the guests arrived 15 to 20 minutes late. J.C. cleared the glass racks out of the kitchen and we went into full production mode. It took everyone a while to actually dig in. They kept saying the food was too pretty to eat. Thank you, but eat it while it is at the temperature at which it is supposed to be eaten!

We did have a lot of leftovers, which I think made our hosts very happy. I think they may have thought we wouldn’t have enough food. We actually had leftovers for days, especially of the baccala. I think people didn’t exactly know what to do with that. It was pretty powerful taste-wise: potato base with salt cod, truffle oil and mustard. The truffle oil really put it over the top into gastronomic delight but I think it was a bit much for non-adventurous eaters. I also burned the second tray of toasts because I couldn’t hear the timer go off in the din. I called Keifel and he and Jules went to three different places to find baguettes. The ones they found were a range of hard as bloody rocks to just stale enough to toast well. Jules said he thought the Nashville Baguette War must have broken out and all the supplies were commandeered. It’s a shame they missed the stash he and Keifel found as a few of those were hard enough to inflict some pretty bloody wounds.

We sent out desserts around 8 and the crème brulées were descended upon. I think it took people awhile to figure out that there were three different flavors. We probably should’ve labelled them more clearly, but I thought that placing the coffee ones on a bed of coffee beans, placing a cracked-open pomegranate on the pomegranate ones and leaving the vanilla tray plain (wish I’d had some edible orchids) was a clear signal. I say, “Don’t overestimate the deduction power of hungry people with a few drinks in them”: hence, our new motto.

Everything wrapped about ten and I was home by 11. The things I heard about the most were the shooters (the recipe follows) and the crème brulèes. I think the coffee and the pomegranate were a big hit and almost every person on the planet loves vanilla. The baccala and the Madeira cake seem to have been the losers. Those were the two things I was most excited about, so that was kind of a bummer. The cake was perfectly light and slightly but not too lemony, the sherried whipped cream was good enough to bathe in and my little baby pieces of candied orange peel had a perfect sugary gloss. J.C. cut the cake into tiny squares (1″) and placed them in those teeny sliver baking cups. I topped them with a perfect little star of whipped cream and planted the candied orange peel like a proud battle flag. Oh well, I’ve been enjoying the leftover cake with coffee and I left another large chunk of cake with the whipped cream for the hosts.

When I got home my feet felt like bloody stumps and my back was on fire, but I was also elated in the overall reception of the food, that we had gotten paid promptly and that the hosts had both hugged us good night and said it was the best food they had ever had at one of their office parties. Yay, us! (I’ll try not to dislocate my shoulder too badly whilst patting myself on the back.)

It was a hit, but it did remind me again why I prefer doing the drop-off food and dinner parties so much more than the big cocktail/apps parties.

Gazpacho Blanco
Serves 4-6 as a main soup, 8-12 as a tapa

1 pound seedless grapes
3 medium cucumbers, peeled and seeded
1 shallot, chopped fine
1 small clove garlic, minced
2 cups plain yoghurt, low or non-fat is fine, but full-test with cream top is delightful
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper
Sliced grapes and toasted sliced almonds, for garnish

1. Puree grapes in the blender or food processor and strain out skins. Return juice to the blender.
2. Add remaining ingredients, except garnishes and puree until smooth but not watery. Chill until ready to serve.
3. To serve, pour gazpacho into shot glasses or similar small bowl or glasses and garnish with sliced grapes and almonds (though I would skip the almonds for shooters as they are a little harder to drink and you don’t want your guests to aspirate a big slice of nut).

Happy Leftovers Weekend!

victoria —  November 24, 2006 — Leave a comment

Keifel, the Jules and I had Thanksgiving yesterday with J&J and J’s folks, Ms. Te and her newly wed husband. It was lovely. Roast beast, roast bird and lobsters (I alwaya say it in my mind now in the British accent of the child who plays First Lobster in Love, Actually), sides galore including roasted Brussels sprouts with bacon and chestnuts, mashed potatoes, vegetable tian, and cornbread dressing. Mmmmm. I brought a frozen mocha mousse cake and Ms. Te brought delightful pumpkin oatmeal cookies.

Today, I was a little woozy, despite the fact that I only had a glass of champagne and a glass of wine with dinner. I think I may be having mild reactions to shellfish. I hope not but it has happened the last time or two when I have eaten shellfish. Bummer.

I still managed to get it together, had lunch with Jules and Keifel at Brontë in the mall (Keifel was working or I wouldn’t have ventured anywhere near the mall). We then scooted over to the grocery for the items for Thanksgiving at Mom’s on Sunday. I have a few things to put together tonight (pie crust dough) and some things to put together tomorrow (pecan tartlets, decorated turkey cookies, cranberry sauce, cucumber sandwiches — those actually have to be done at Mom’s — and a fruit tray with lime dip). But before all of that I threw together a little Thanksgiving dinner redux for the three of us (mostly so I would have leftovers to play with).

I roasted a turkey breast (though I didn’t bother to brine it), roasted asparagus with boiled and roasted Danish potatoes, cranberry sauce, pan gravy, and wild rice chestnut stuffing. No dessert, as we will be in dessert up to our eyeballs at Mom’s. It was quietly lovely. We even ate on the good plates.


Mmm. Crispy turkey skin.

epicurious.com has a few recommendations for leftovers. I have a couple tea bread suggestions for leftover cranberry sauce and sweet potato casserole. My personal favorite is toasted bread with thinly sliced warmed turkey, a little warmed stuffing and a big dollop of fridge cold cranberry sauce.

I hope everyone had a lovely Thanksgiving and safe travels to and fro.

EDIT NOTE: If you got an earlier copy of this recipe, I originally forgot to include the 1 cup of light brown sugar. Sorry for any cookie disasters. –V

In looking through the mountain o’ cards, clippings and books, I happily re-stumbled across this gem. It has a bit of an emotional attachment for me because it was one of the things I made while we were home with my dad in hospice. I cooked and baked a lot those brief days. We had a house full of people, his sisters and their husbands and my siblings and their spouses and children. I made cookies and cinnamon buns and soup, a lot of soup as I recall. These cookies take a significant chunk of time because they are rolled out and the recipe makes 4-6 dozen depending on the size star cutter you use so I made small ones and spent 2 good hours in the kitchen, trying to think about something besides the inevitable.

I like them as a tiny elegant cookie or as a half-palm sized treat. They make a good finish with mint tea for a Moroccan or North African meal. The recipe comes from Mollie Katzen’s wonderful book Vegetable Heaven with a few tweaks by me.

Sesame Stars

A few sesame seeds for rolling, plus
some for the tops
1 cup of butter (2 sticks or 8 ounces), softened
1 cup tahini (ground sesame butter)
1 cup light brown sugar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt (the salt is critical for taste)
Demerara or Sugar in the Raw sugar for the tops

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Cream together the butter, tahini and the sugars in a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. Add the eggs one at a time, beating each in before adding the next. Beat in the vanilla.

Combine the flour, baking powder and salt and sift it on top of the butter/tahini mixture. Stir until combined. The dough should be pliable but stiff enough to roll. If the butter has gotten too soft you can pop it in the chiller for 15 minutes.

Sprinkle a very lightly floured board with a handful of sesame seeds and roll the dough out to 1/4″ thick. Cut with 2 1/2″ or 1″ cookie cutters. You can dmake both sizes, but put only one size on a cookie sheet to encourage even browning.

Sprinkle the cookies with sesame seeds and the Demerara sugar. Bake 12-15 minutes, less (8-10 mins.) for the 1″ cookies, or until lightly browned at the edges. Cool on racks.

These cookies store beautifully for up to a week. The dough also freezers well and can be made into 1 1/2″ in diameter logs of dough and then sliced, while still nearly frozen, into coins. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and sugar and bake just as for the stars.

Planning for the Holidays

victoria —  November 20, 2006 — 2 Comments

Making a list and checking it twice isn’t just for St. Nick anymore. I plotted out what goodies I will be making for my near and dear and the far and dear as well. I have a month and a half of baking ahead. Here’s the list. I’ll be happy to pass along recipe or sources if anyone is interested. You can email at victoria at foodieporn dot com.

Baking and Confectionary:
Trinidad black cake
The amazing triple chocolate brownies (my siblings get these every year and are addicted)
Pecan sandies with cooked sugar icing (my oldest brother’s wife’s faves)
Stollen
Glazed chestnuts
Pannetone
Lebkuchen with almond flour
Rum balls
Chocolate bourbon balls
Gingerbread men
Decorated sugar cookies (mostly snowflakes this year, I think. I bought one of those cutter sets with little tiny cutters)
Speculaas windmills (if I get around to actually ordering the mold)
Pfeffernusse
Spritz cookies
Pepperkakor (Swedish gingerbread, if I get the pig cookie cutter in time)
White chocolate Mexican wedding cookies
Almond mice
Angel food candy
Peanut butter chocolate kiss cookies
Panforte
Zimsterne
Chocolate truffles, various flavors
Basler Leckerli (another type of gingerbread… do you see a theme here?)
Mincemeat pies with Irish whiskey
Checkerboard cookies
Crackle cookies

In addition to all of that, I have stuff to make for this weekend for the turkey feasts we are attending (2) and we are having people to our house Thanksgiving morning for crepes and the Macy’s parade. Joie de Vivre also has a catering gig on December 2nd for 45 people for tapas. And we are having the Boxing Day party as an evening open house since Christmas falls on a weekday this year and everyone has to go back to the grind on Tuesday.

I was joking with Julian last night and he asked if he was the only one who enjoyed all the baking and I honestly told him no, I enjoy it, too, or I wouldn’t set myself such a list. Today is the day for making things that need to age: rum balls, bourbon balls, gingerbreads. But first there is work, then the gym and Power Point homework.

I will try to remember to take pictures and post as much of the chaos as I can. Let the holidays begin (but dammit don’t start playing “Rudolph” and “White Christmas” until after Thanksgiving. I like my holidays one at a time, thankyouverymuch.

Let’s just say that my husband likes pork, a lot. To appease his primal need for flaming hunks of meat, I put a pork roast in the oven last night and made a big salad to offset the damage. I briefly considered a starch but I was lazy and it was getting late. And honestly the pork wasn’t flaming, which is a good thing when it’s inside your oven.

For the pork I whipped into the corner grocery (a Harris Teeter) and picked up a pork loin roast (closer to the blade end but still with a bit of the tenderloin). I didn’t have time to brine it, though that would have been sublime. Instead I rubbed it down with a coffee-ancho chile rub and really watched the cooking time. For the accompanying salad I whipped up my fall pomegranate salad. Recipes follow. Enjoy.

Coffee-Ancho Rub

1 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
1 tablespoon espresso powder or instant espresso chrystals
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried orange peel
1 tablespoon ground ancho chile
2 tablespoons muscavado sugar (or dark brown sugar)

Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing bowl. You will have enough for about three roasts. Dry the meat with paper towels and rub the mixture in. Pork is best when cooked to 135°F or 140°F, as it’s resting the cooking will continue and it should reach 145°F, which is safe to eat and still juicy.

Vic’s Pomegranate and Avocado Salad

This is loosely based on a salad from Bon Appetit that ran in the December 05 issue.

1 medium-sized head of romaine lettuce, washed, spun and torn into bite-sized pieces
1 avocado, peeled and sliced into 1/3″ slices lengthwise
seeds of one small pomegranate
sections from one orange
3 tablespoons picked cilantro leaves
For the dressing:
1/4 cup olive oil
juice of one lime
2 teaspoons pomegranate molasses
1 small shallot minced very fine
salt and pepper to taste

Whisk together all of the ingredients for the dressing and toss some of it with the romaine. Arrange the dressed lettuce on a platter and arrange the avocado slices and orange sections over the lettuce. Sprinkle with the pomegranate seeds and cilantro leaves. Pass the remaining dressing at the table.

Happy Halloween!

victoria —  October 31, 2006 — Leave a comment

I do love Halloween. I love it in its more homespun, home made guise over the commercial juggernaut it has become (it is the second biggest spending holiday after Christmas). What happened to bobbing for apples and home made, closet raid costumes? What happened to burnt cork beards and trick or treating with a pillow case?

Anyway, Julian and I made Halloween cookies last night for Keifel’s work trick or treating. We, well, I really, went a little Martha on them, but I love playing in icing.


Close up of Frankenstein’s monster’s head


Close up of owls and graves


Ghosts, cats, and pumpkins

The downside of Halloween cookies is the copious amounts of black frosting that make your mouth look like you’ve been bleeding internally for days. Nothing like cute little kids running around with red-black teeth.

There is magic in soup, not just the mildly antibiotic after effects of warm chicken noodle, but also in the making and serving. All that chopping and stirring is meditative and grounding, at least for me. Plus in making soup the cook is building on flavors, the sweetness of onions, the sharpness of garlic, the earthiness of celery and carrot, the savory stock, the herbs and fillips of garnishes.

In serving, you are presented with a steaming bowl of nourishment. Even soup from a can feels homey in a bowl. Comfort food cries out to be served in a bowl with a spoon, preferably a big one that makes you feel like a kid. And soup is communal and cohesive. It’s the ultimate one-pot, one-dish meal. A salad on the side is nice, but usually there are vegetables to be had in the main attraction and all it really needs is a crusty piece of bread to accompany. You can serve one or a 1000 fairly easily with soup. The soup below will serve 6 as a main dish.

Victoria’s Asian-inspired Chicken Noodle

1” piece fresh ginger, minced fine
1 clove garlic, minced fine
8 cups chicken stock
2 cooked chicken breasts, cut into ½” cubes
1 bunch noodles (somen, Chinese-style, udon) about 1/4#, cooked and rinsed in cool water
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup scallions, sliced thinly at an angle, white and green part
Soy or tamari and pepper to taste
Chili sauce and/or toasted sesame oil to garnish

Heat a soup pan over medium high heat and add just enough oil to barely coat the bottom, sauté the garlic and ginger just until soft but don’t let it brown. Once it is softened, add the stock.

Bring the stock to a slow boil and stir into a swirl, slowly drizzle in the egg, continuing to stir the soup in a swirl. It should cook instantly into ragged shards, just as in egg drop soup. If it doesn’t the stock isn’t hot enough. Continue to drizzle in the rest of the egg.

Lower the heat and do not allow to boil again. Add the chicken and heat through then the cooked noodles and heat through. (If you know you are going to have leftover soup, don’t add the noodles to the soup, put them in the individual bowls and ladle soup over each serving.) Add the scallions and season to taste. Serve garnished with chili sauce to stir in for added heat or float a few drops of toasted sesame oil on the surface for an added punch.

Nigella Feasts Is a Feast

victoria —  October 2, 2006 — Leave a comment

If you’ve been reading along you know that Nigella Lawson is one of my personal deities. She is a goddess among women, not just because she is drop dead gorgeous, not just because she cooks like a demon, not just because she is a strong woman who has taken more than a few body blows in life and kept her wits about her, and not just because she is as obviously in love with the English language as she is with food. It’s all of the above and the fact that every interview I’ve seen or read shows a self-deprecating, humble woman who acknowledges the luck and support that got her where she is and that she doesn’t like to be called a chef because she’s a home cook.

Given all that, I was anxious to watch the premiere of her new Food Network show. It didn’t disappoint. Her recipes included a cornbread topped chili with Black Forest-inspired trifle. She also made guacamole and a toppings tray to go with the chili. Per her signature style, the chili had a few additions that veer from the traditional. She added cardamom pods to the chili and cinnamon to the cornbread. She also added cocoa to the chili, but that is something I have seen done before and definitely harkens back to traditional Mexican cooking. She takes a detour into her pantry (oh, I am so envious) to show off her souvenirs from her travels, a fancy broth base from Italy and cloud berry jam from Sweden. I completely connected to that little aside, as all of my trips in the States and abroad have added cooking accoutrements or odd ingredients to my bursting cabinets. Of course, I also prowl Nashville’s international markets for the unique and bizarre.

The guacamole was fun to watch because it appears that Nigella and I have come to the same conclusions about what Guacamole entails. We’ve both skipped the tomatoes. She opted out on onions and uses scallions. I cut back the onion component and switched to red onion. We both add cilantro, though I tend to use way more than she does. I also make a paste of a clove of garlic and kosher salt for mine.

The trifle is a glorious cloud of a thing with a base of chocolate pound cake-cherry jam sandwiches, soaked with liqueur, dotted with cherries, smothered in chocolate custard (pudding for us Yanks) and then gilded with a mound of softly whipped cream. Per the usual, Nigella’s offhand comments and clumsily deft work, make the viewer, well me anyway, want to dive right in and taste it or at least run to the Harris Teeter to stock up on all the necessary ingredients. Keifel has requested that I make the trifle for him to take to work. He would have to take it to work to keep me from bathing in it.

Keifel watched the show with me and we both instantly noticed that this show looks different than the original series and Forever Summer. The other two were filmed and have an engaging warmth that digital video lacks. The new series was filmed in the kitchen of the Shepard’s Bush house that Lawson shared with her deceased husband, John Diamond. I can’t imagine what that was like, but the familiarity of the setting is wonderful for those of us who feel like we got to know Lawson in her trips into her office/library, pantry, bathrooms, kids’ rooms, etc. I can excuse the video because of that.

At the dinner party feast finale we get a glimpse of Nigella’s circle and of course get to watch her eat. I believe one of her guests is her sister Horatia that viewers met in the Legacy cooking episode of Nigella Bites. Keifel thinks Horatia gives Nigella a run for her money on the gorgeousness front. I have to agree. Horatia has a rounder face than her sister, but shares her coloring and the striking eyes. Again, a note of the familiar for the Nigella-obsessed.

She makes a few statements that make me love her all the more. Before dumping the meat into the pot for the chili, she says that she feels safer with organic meat. Yay! I do really feel that those of us who choose to eat meat should demand a safer food supply chain and that organic and free range meat make a much smaller mark on the environment. I don’t think Nigella has the suggestive power of Oprah (I wish) but it all helps. It is expensive. I think it’s worth it to pay more and eat less. ::Kicks soapbox back to the side::

In the signature moment established in the first series, Nigella’s midnight fridge raid, we see the door crack open spilling light into a dark room and a pajama-clad Nigella taking a bit of sour cream and a bite of chili then wrapping the chili pot in her arm, wooden spoon in mouth, disappear into the night. I do love that moment in every show. It is emblematic of the casualness of her cooking, the homey if decidedly posh, vibe she exudes. I’ve read reviews of this and previous shows that harp on her disconnect with her audience and her snobbery and I just don’t get it.

I do realize that economically, she is in a place that is silly for me to even aspire, but cooking is cooking. Ingredients and equipment aside, technique is technique. Anyone who cooks has their own well-worn path and deviations, the same ingredients they figure out how to work into everything, the tools that they would be lost without. Ultimately, her show is on television. She has her hair and makeup done, she surely has prep cooks, someone else deals with kitchen turned set. These are not realities for the home cook. That doesn’t mean that she isn’t offering anything of use to those of us not as high in the food chain financially. Also, I am picky about what I eat and cook with ingredient- and tool-wise. I detest the term food snob because I think it is closely tied to that much, much bigger and nastier concept of anti-intellectualism (I’m trying not to get myself started here), but I don’t object to what it means. And I am “snobby” only so long as I am in control of the situation. I would no more turn down food prepared and presented to me by a friend or family member than I would kick them. I might not make it like they do, and I might not use ingredients that they see as a staple (cream of mushroom soup, I am talking to you, laughingly), but they cooked for me and cooking is an act of charity, an act of love and one of the things that civilizes us.

So, I don’t think Nigella is a snob, but if she is, I don’t really care. And besides, she uses paper napkins out of her detestation of ironing. I try to avoid them out of not using disposable things, but I don’t iron the cloth napkins my friends and family use. So there.

Pie Crust to Beat the Band

victoria —  September 22, 2006 — 2 Comments

Over the last three weeks I have made approximately 7 batches of pie crust for various and sundry things. I have tweaked and prodded and cursed and bitched and celebrated. And, I have done the victory lap, because, Gentle Readers, I have struck culinary gold.

Pie crust is that culinary holy grail, the bane of the existences of many, the thing that sends more accomplished cooks running to the frozen food isle than any other kitchen task. It is a pain in the ass to deal with, most of the time. But good pie crust/pastry is sublime. It’s melt in the mouth tender and shatteringly flaky. It doesn’t sog under the stress of juicy late summer fruits or gravied pot pie filling. It makes tasty tarts as well as apple pie perfect tops.

After going through, I believe, three bags of King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose I have hit upon the following. This recipe makes a lot of dough, enough for three 9″ crusts or 4 stingy 8″ ones. It can be rolled immediately but turns into this sublimely easy to work with velvet after a day’s rest in the chiller. With that in mind, if you remember, it’s best to make it a day ahead. You can freeze the leftover in tightly wrapped disks, just thaw under refrigeration for a day before you need it.

Best of luck with your transformations of the autumn harvest into the truly divine.

Victoria’s No Fail Supreme Pie Dough of Insane Greatness (no need to be humble, right?)

This recipe has only been tested with the following ingredients and brand names. I am going to be specific because this is what has worked for me. Your mileage may vary depending on your available goods.

5 1/2 cups King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose flour (measured by spooning in to the cup and leveling with a knife)
2 teaspoons fine grind sea salt
1 cup (1/2 pound) unsalted butter, cold (I’ve used several different butters from store brand to organic and European, it all seems to work)
1 cup (1/2 pound) Earth Balance non-hydrogenated vegetable shortening, cold (There are other brands out there, just get the hard, stick kind not the whipped stuff in a tub)
1 tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice (good results with both)
1 egg, lightly beaten
water

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Cut the butter and shortening into pats and toss with the flour. Using a pastry blender (or two knives or ice cold fingers), cut the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles rolled oat meal with a few pea-sized lumps.

Crack the egg into a one-cup liquid measure and add the vinegar. Add enough water for the mixture to reach the one cup measure. Whisk together with a fork. Make a well in the flour/fat mixture and pour approximately 3/4 of the liquid in. With a fork, stir, but more accurately futz, the dry and liquid together just until it starts to clump. You are not going for smooth dough here, there should be some bits of flour in the bottom of the bowl that just don’t want to incorporate. Add enough of the remaining liquid and up to three tablespoons of additional water if necessary to get the clumping to happen.

Divide into three or four disks and refrigerate until ready to use. Again, try to make it a day ahead as the flour will have time to completely hydrate and make dealing with the dough so much easier. If it is too hard to roll let it sit on the counter for about 5 minutes to allow it to soften up enough to roll without cracking. Another rolling hint is to roll the rounds between two sheets of waxed paper or parchment paper, less cleanup and you don’t have to worry about it stubbornly sticking to the counter.